Tenerife Essential

For me, this day tour over the Güímar ridge into Teide National Park is the highlight of Tenerife. Over around 175 kilometres, I’m accompanied by Teide—the highest mountain in Spain—for almost the entire day.

Starting in the south – setting off for Güímar

I start in Tenerife’s sunny south and take the TF-1 towards Santa Cruz. After the tunnel, I take the exit for Güímar. If you have the time and feel like it, this is a great place for the first stop: visit the Pirámides de Güímar—an ethnographic park where you can learn a lot about the island’s first settlers, the Guanches. I plan around an hour and a half for the visit.

View from the TF 523 towards Izaña

View over Güímar towards Gran Canaria

After that, I take the TF-525 up to Arafo. There I switch to the TF-523, a well-developed mountain road with the first fantastic views. I usually stop at the Miradores La Chivisaya and Montaña Colorada before the road joins the TF-24.

Through the Esperanza Forest – the start of the “Ruta de los 20 Miradores”

The TF-24 runs through the Esperanza Forest over the ridge into the Cañadas and into Teide National Park. For me, this is where the real “Ruta de los 20 Miradores” begins: one panorama follows the next, with the sea, the blanket of clouds and Teide alternating in spectacular scenes.

View from Mirador de Chipeque

A must for me is a stop at Mirador de Chipeque. From here I enjoy a fantastic view of the north coast, the sea of clouds and Teide. After that, more viewpoints await, such as Mirador de Ayosa, Mirador La Crucita and, above all, Mirador La Tarta (the “cake”). The stacked layers of volcanic rock show impressively how this ridge has grown over many eruptions.

The observatory

If you’re interested in astronomy, you should plan a visit to the Observatorio del Teide. Tickets are limited, so I recommend buying them online in advance. The view from there of Teide—and, on a clear day, all the way to Gran Canaria—is spectacular.

El Portillo, visitor centre and Minas de San José

In El Portillo, the TF-24 joins the TF-21. I often take a break here, have a coffee or a bite to eat at the restaurant, and recharge. Very close by is the El Portillo visitor centre. The formation of the Canary Islands and the unique volcanic landscape are explained very clearly here—interesting for adults and children alike.

Another favourite stop of mine is the Minas de San José. It’s often windy there, but I love walking over the light basalt stones while keeping Teide in view. The pale volcanic landscape makes an ideal backdrop for photos.

El Teide once again

If time allows, it’s worth taking the Teide cable car up. The last ascent towards the summit is in the afternoon; if you want to go up, keep an eye on the time and reserve tickets in advance.

Cañadas, Parador and Roque de Gracia

Along the TF-21, more viewpoints await me, such as El Tabonal Negro, Mirador de la Ruleta, Llano de Ucanca, Zapato de la Reina and others—each with its own character. A special place of worship for me is Mirador Roque de Gracia. I park at the Parador de Las Cañadas del Teide and walk to the Roque. From the Parador, I also have access to a souvenir shop. Some items are by local artists; others—like so often—are more from the Far East.

View of El Teide from Roque de García

Shortly before the Juan Évora ethnographic museum, the road splits. Here I have two options:

• Take the TF-38 towards Chío, passing miradores such as Narices del Teide, CL-500 and Los Poleos.
• Or stay on the TF-21 towards Vilaflor.

Vilaflor, Pino Gordo and bodegas

After the national park, I continue south. Shortly before Vilaflor, I stop at the impressive pine “Pino Gordo”, which is always worth a photo stop. In Vilaflor itself, it’s worth taking a walk through the village and visiting the church dedicated to the Apostle Peter.

Tajinastes near Vilaflor

For a break, I like to stop at Restaurante Cafetería Tito. The fresh tortilla de patatas and other simple, homemade dishes are a perfect match for this mountain-village atmosphere.

Delicious papas arrugadas

Between Vilaflor and Escalona there are several bodegas. The vines grow on volcanic soils here, which gives the wines their distinctive character. Tenerife was spared the phylloxera plague of the 19th century—so there are still grape varieties here that have long since disappeared on the mainland, such as Baboso. At Finca Ecológica Alma de Trévejos, a single-varietal Baboso is produced without blending, which I especially recommend to wine lovers.

A culinary finale at El Chamo and the drive back south

To round things off, I like to treat myself to a visit to El Chamo in Escalona. There I enjoy homemade croquettes, grilled dishes and a lovely selection of regional wines. As a house wine, I recommend a Rosé Afrutado—light, fruity and ideal after a day in the mountains. Prices are fair, the place is popular with locals, and as a guest you quickly feel welcome.

From Escalona, I’m back in the south in under 30 minutes. That often leaves enough time for a refreshing swim in the sea or a few laps in the pool—an ideal end to this full-on day.

Practical tips for the Ruta de los 20 Miradores

• Don’t leave anything visible in the car.
• Car hire: I recommend booking with Canarias.com; they offer personal advice and provide suitable vehicles for mountain roads.
• It’s best to reserve excursions and entry tickets (Teide cable car, observatory, Pirámides de Güímar) in advance—this saves waiting time and makes planning easier.
• Food and drink along the route:
  • Restaurante El Portillo
  • Restaurante El Bambi (Portillo Alto)
  • Parador de Las Cañadas del Teide
  • Restaurante Bar Cafetería Tito in Vilaflor
  • Restaurante El Chamo in La Escalona
• Bodegas along the way:
  • 1242, https://bodgas1242.com/
  • Organic winery Alma de Trevejos, https://almadetrevejos.com/
  • Bodegas Reverón, https://www.bodegareveron.com/